Frequently
Asked Questions
ABOUT
DRESSING & GRINDING...
1.
Wheel is loaded and burning parts.
2.
Wheel is not giving required surface finish.
3.
Dressing tool life has changed.
4.
What are the differences between electroplated and brazed
tools?
5.
Can you braze CBN?
6.
I am not sure if I should use a electroplated or a brazed
product?
ABOUT
ENGRAVING...
1. Why diamond for your engraving tools?
2. What is diamond burnishing engraving?
3.
What will diamond burnishing do for me?
4.
What will diamond burnishing tools do?
5.
Tips for diamond burnishing.
6.
The diamond rotating pen engraver.
7.
Drag engraving.
8.
Traditional diamond drag engraving tools.
9.
Characteristics of the various angles of diamond drag engraving tools.
10.
The secret to making an excellent diamond graver.
11.
The right tool for the right job.
12.
Tool wear and replacement.
DRESSING
& GRINDING ANSWERS... 1.
Wheel is loaded and burning parts.
Try increasing
the traverse rate of the dressing tool. If you are using a
single point; check to see if the point has worn, if so return
it for reset or replace it. If you are using a particle dresser;
check to see if there is any wear in the diamond section. New
diamonds should be exposed, matrix should not be loaded, and
diamonds should not appear flat and shiny. If you are using
a rotary dresser, contact us or return for evaluation.
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2.
Wheel is not giving required surface finish.
Be sure
the dressing tool is rigid in its holder. Slow down traverse
rate of tool. If you are using a new single point tool, the
finish will continuously improve as you wear the diamond. If
you are using a particle dresser, consider going to a finer
grit. If you are using a rotary dresser, contact us or return
for evaluation.
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3.
Dressing tool life has changed.
Make sure
the tool is rigid in the holder. Try rotating a single point
tool to extend the life. Check to see if your process has changed.
Is the material the same, are the grinding wheels and coolant
the same, has any thing changed in your cycle. The slightest
change can impact the life of the dresser and needs to be evaluated.
If every thing has remained the same contact us for assistance.
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4.
What are the differences between electroplated and brazed
tools?
Electroplated
tools offer a mechanical bond holding the diamond or Cubic
Boron Nitride (CBN) to the substrate. This works roughly the
same as an iceberg; two thirds of the particle is buried below
the bond and one third of the particle is exposed. Electroplated
tools tend to hold tighter tolerances, and can provide better
finishes.
Brazed tools
offer a chemical bond holding the diamond or CBN to the substrate.
This bond takes place at the base of the particle and allows
for maximum particle exposure. Brazed tools offer aggressive
removal rates, are free cutting, and longer lasting. Braze
alloys have multiple features, they can be more abrasion resistant,
more impact resistant, and offer a stronger bond than the same
electroplated tools.
Both tools
can be stripped and recoated.
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5.
Can you braze CBN?
Yes you can. Bruce Diamond offers DAC and General Electric CBN material.
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6.
I am not sure if I should use a electroplated or a brazed
product?
Sometimes
these tools are interchangeable but typically one is better
suited for the application. Our sales engineers will be happy
to evaluate your application to determine which product is
best.
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ENGRAVING ANSWERS...
1.
Why diamond for your engraving tools?
Diamond is the hardest substance known to man and even more
importantly, the most resistant to abrasion. Diamond is the tool of choice
for many machining and engraving applications in a wide variety
of industries. The unique geometry of the diamond engraving
tool, with its highly polished surface, provides the brilliantly
reflective lines of top quality engraving. The point of the
drag engraver and cutting edge of the diamond burnisher
are sharpened to micro-precision tolerances that simply last
and last.
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2.
What is diamond burnishing engraving? Engraving by diamond burnishing is the newest and most progressive
form of engraving, offering the ultimate in increased quality
and versatility. The new diamond burnishers are engraving
tools that can be used in all manual and computer-operated
machines
equipped with rotating spindles.
Burnishing is the process of removing a surface coating
while polishing the background material, such as
coated brass or aluminum. In the example of black brass, burnishing
simply is the removal of the black lacquer while polishing the brass
itself. The polished brass attains the lusterous look
of gold, contrasting beautifully against the black.
Burnishing will expand your engraving capabilities
and, thereby, your business horizons. It adds the potential to engrave
many new materials and creative engravers expand the list daily; from glass, mirrors and acrylics, to black brass and anodized or coated aluminum. Many engraving problems can be solved
and, most importantly, the technique of burnish engraving will
add to your productivity by saving you time.
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3.
What will diamond burnishing do for me?
Diamond burnishing can cut your engraving time in half and, at the same time, give you a superior product. A drag-engraved line has width limitations, while a diamond burnishing tool can
be selected from 10 tip sizes from .003" to .050". Therefore,
the appropriate line width most suitable for a specific letter
height can be engraved. In contrast, to produce a readable
letter with the drag engraving method, a more time-consuming
multiple-line font is required.
In an actual test, we drag-engraved 1/4" letters on a black
lacquered aluminum plaque. A three line font and two passes
were needed to complete the job effectively. The plaque contained
78 letters and took 14 minutes and 22 seconds to engrave. A second
plaque was engraved using a diamond burnisher. Again, 1/4" letters
were engraved but this time we were able to complete an 84 letter
plaque in just 6 minutes and 18 seconds using a one line font
and needing only one pass. Less than half the time! At that rate,
you could double a day's production and profit or simply take
the afternoon off. Since Bruce Diamond's introduction
of these diamond burnishing tools, many engravers have abandoned
drag engraving totally, in favor of diamond burnishing.
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4. What will diamond burnishing tools do?
Diamond burnishing tools will do it all! Bruce
Diamond's standard burnishing tools are available
with tip
sizes of: .003",
.005", .010", .015", .020", .025",
.030", .040", .and 050". Custom tools are also
available for unique applications. For those wishing to
give diamond burnishing a try, a .015" or .020" tool
would be recommended as an excellent starting point.
(Note: Your diamond burnishers also double
as glass engraving tools!) [back
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5. Tips for diamond burnishing.
Light pressure is the key to successfull burnishing.
Remember, you are only removing a surface coating and polishing the
base material. It is advisable to use a "Feather Weight" spring-loaded
cutter knob to replace the standard brass knob. This attachment
will allow the constant light touch that burnishing requires
and allows the tool to glide over any slight imperfections in
the surface, especially when engraving glass. The surface
of glass is always somewhat wavy. Without a spring system, the
tool will cut too deeply into the high areas, showing
some chipping, and may totally skip over low areas.
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6. The diamond rotating pen engraver.
The Bruce Diamond rotating pen engraver
brings high quality to the difficult
task of engraving
coated
pens and will
engrave many pens that were previously deemed unengravable. The
diamond pen engraver is similar to the burnishing tool and is
cut to a .003" tip for fine engraved lines. Unique
side cuts in the diamond help to cut away the pen's hard
surface coating. These pen engravers are available for rotating
spindles utilizing the 1/8", 11/64" and 1/4" diameter shanks.
A Feather Weight cutter knob is, again, recommended.
(Note: For those engravers without
a rotating spindle, Bruce Diamond Corporation manufactures a very sharp, highly polished 90 degree engraver for coated pens.)
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7. Drag engraving.
The art of engraving with diamond
dates back almost 2,000 years.
Actually, the first diamond tools were, in fact, engraving tools. Through
the use of crude diamond engraving tools, man first learned
of the superior qualities of diamond.
The drag engraving tool features
a cone shaped natural industrial
diamond,
permanently
bonded
into a stainless
steel shank. The tool draws a line in the engraved material as it is drawn
along by cutting a groove. The hardness of the material
and the angle of the tool allow for some slight changes in depth
and line width. As a general rule, softer materials
such as gold require wider angles (140 or 150 degrees). These
wide angle tools produce a somewhat wider line with brilliant
engraved interior surfaces. The sharper angle tool may
dig in too deeply, leaving rough and jagged lines.
Pressure is an important part
of drag engraving and should
be varied when changing tools, angles and materials. A softer
material and a sharper angle will require less pressure. Too
much pressure and hard materials can break the sharper
angle tools. Always choose the proper tool for the job
and regulate pressure to suit the application.
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8. Traditional diamond drag engraving tools.
Bruce Diamond manufactures diamond drag engraving
tools in 6 standard angles in all shank diameters and lengths.
| Industry Standard Shank Sizes |
| 1/8" x
1/2" |
Inside
Ring Engraver with Flat for Set Screw |
| 1/8" x
1-1/8" |
| 1/8" x
4-1/2" |
| 11/64" x
6-1/2" |
| 1/4" x
6-1/2" |
| (Metric,
collet and custom shanks available on request.) |
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9. Characteristics of the various angles of diamond drag engraving tools.
-
The
Sharp Angles (90 and 100 Degree Diamonds).The
90 degree diamond graver
has the sharpest angle of the available
engraving tools
and was designed to produce very fine lines, small
and delicate engraving and it is the tool of choice
for coated
pens. It also provides additional reach around
a small diameter
curved piece such as a pen.
The 100 degree graver
produces a slightly
wider line,
will not cut
quite as deeply
and is a
more heavy-duty
tool.
Some caution must
be exercised
when using
the sharp angle
tools. They
should not
be used
for general purpose
engraving. The sharper angle allows the tool to cut deeper
and pressure must be correspondingly adjusted. Deep cuts
are not desirable
as there is a
tendency to build up a berm on the sides of the engraved
lines. Damage to the work can also result.
-
The
Standard Angles (120 and 130 Degree Diamonds). These are the work horse angles and are designed for general purpose engraving. There is very little effective difference in the performance between the two angles. The 130 degree diamond will cut a slightly wider path and somewhat less deep.
- The
Wide Angle Tools (140 and 150 Degree Angles). These engravers
are for soft metal, such as gold and pewter. They produce
the widest lines and have the least tendency to dig into the soft material. Again, there is little
difference between the two angles. The 150 degree diamond will cut a slightly wider line.
(Note: All Bruce Diamond engraving tools are marked with the appropriate diamond angle.)
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10.
The
secret to
making an
excellent diamond graver.
Polish
is the
key to
an excellent
diamond graver. Proper diamond engraving tools are first cut and shaped to a perfect cone, then polished and lapped to a mirror-like finish. The mirror-like finish at the very tip of the diamond provides the high quality brilliant engraving. It is easy to inspect diamond
tools for polish with a jeweler's loupe. There is a remarkable
difference between a polished and non-polished stone. This
will also become noticeable in your work. Rough tools
have
higher
friction
and tend
to rip
and
leave
tracings
of their
roughness
in the
engraved
lines.
The
desirable high
luster can
only be
obtained by
a highly polished graver.
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11. The
right tool
for the
right job.
In
order to
select the
right tool
for the
job, every
engraver should
have one graver
from
each
angle
group
(Sharp
Angle,
Standard
Angle
and
Wide
Angle)
and a
backup
for the
tools
that
are used
most
often.
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12.
Tool Wear and Replacement
Diamonds last a long time. They are the hardest
substance known to man and have abrasion resistance qualities
that are superior to all other materials but diamonds do not
last forever.
Worn tools can damage your work and place excessive strain
on your machine.
Remember, your work can not be good if your tool is worn
or of poor quality. The most elaborate and expensive
engraving machine or the most talented engraver is only as
good as the tool that is being used.
-
How
to judge when a tool needs to be replaced.
It is difficult to exactly estimate the life expectancy
of a diamond graver because there are so many
variables: amount
of use, types of materials, experience of the
operator, etc. Further, the tools wear slowly and the
decline in quality is so gradual that
it is difficult to notice.
Periodically inspect your diamond gravers and your work.
If your work begins to loose brilliance when compared
with work
done with a sharp diamond, replacement will bring
back the quality. When you change your diamond, compare
the last
work done with the old and the first work done
with the new. The new diamond will cut a sharp "V." The
old will dig a furrow with a rounded bottom, resembling
more of a "U" shape. More
pressure is required with a dull diamond and
excess material will be pushed up on the sides of the
groove. This excess
pressure can damage your work and your machine.
Change to a fresh diamond tool.
- Changing
tools by the calendar.
The best approach is to evaluate the amount of work
you do and the types of materials that you engrave.
Then establish a schedule by following these general
rules of thumb. Note
the dates on your calendar.
Here are
some suggestions:
–
Survey of Engravers. A survey by "The Engravers
Journal" estimated an average
period of 8 weeks for busy engravers
and trophy
shops.
– High Volume Shops. Can change as often as weekly.
Industrial engravers
doing both high volume and hard
materials like stainless steel or abrasive
materials
may be changing
daily.
–
Moderate Volume Shops. Change semi-annually
to quarterly, depending on the nature of work and previously
mentioned
variables. These
dates should be set
by your seasonal demands and actually marked on the calendar.
– Low
Volume Shops. General purpose
engraving. Change annually.
(Note: Occasional engravers can stretch that if
their work on close inspection remains good but when
you hear of tools lasting for several years, quality
is suffering.)
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